A New Ferme-Auberge Restaurant “A La Table d’Antan”

Reviewed by Ian Blackshaw and Ronald Gladman

In the same way that the UK has pioneered the farm shop and grown it into a successful agro-industry in its own right, in the last few years, Northern France has done something similar with the introduction and promotion of the ‘ferme auberge’. There are many to choose from in our Region, and a new one has recently opened in Offin: between Hesmond and Beaurainville in the delightful Crequoise valley.

Called ‘A La Table d’Antan’ it is run by Dominique Delepierre, the mother of Francois Delepierre, who is well-known locally for his fruit and vegetable produce. The dining room only seats 20 and is housed in a typical 19th century fermette furnished in rustic style. One of its quirky features is a traditional wooden staircase that leads nowhere – only to the ceiling!

The restaurant is open on Friday and Saturday nights and Sunday lunchtime only; and, in view of the limited number of covers, it is advisable to reserve a place in advance.

We went with respective wives last Friday evening and the set menu (table d’hote) comprised three courses, featuring the seasonal vegetables and fruit of the house – tomatoes of various colours and shapes and plums. The food was delicious and well presented. The promise of the elegant first course, which included a cherry tomato clafoutis and a splendid home made ketchup, was not quite borne out by the main course, in which there was a preponderance of rice. However, the honour of the house was restored by the plum dessert. The menu, that is to say, the featured vegetable, changes each week – next week it is home-grown courgettes. Perhaps best to check ahead if you do not want to eat entirely à la fortune du pot.

The price was €18 per head, including drinks: a raspberry fizz aperitif (possibly a Perle de Framboise from Loison sur Crequoise), topped with a mirabelle; a carafe of rose and red wine; and tea and coffee to finish with. Payment by credit card is accepted, but the machine is kept in the shop, which allows Francois, who, incidentally speaks very good English, to show off his wares and also gives diners an opportunity to buy them.

A pleasant experience and evening

Ferme Auberge ‘A La Table D’Antan’ 5 Grande Rue 62990 OFFIN

Telephone: 03 21 81 36 27

A view of the Dining Room

The menu (Sunday Lunch)

The restaurant entrance with the farm produce shop to the right. The plants in the foreground are for sale

Additional comments from Patrick Hay

We went for Sunday lunch. This is a charming place run by a family who take delight in talking about their farm produce. They grow 13 varieties of tomato and 4 of potato, plus many other seasonal vegetables. François will tell you which variety is best for various types of cooking - baking, roasting, boiling, etc. He can also sell you the seeds for many of the vegetables he grows

His array of different types of courgettes and squashes was eyecatching. We ate a delicious “pâtisson” which is shaped like a parasol. Apparently it’s also known as a “Spanish artichoke”, and there was certainly a faint hint of artichoke flavour in it. Ours came with the flesh scooped out, cut into chunks and put back with seasonings and cheese then gratinée. Served with a huge pork chop and some delicious potato dumplings, our party of 8 agreed unanimously - it was superb.

Our starter was an excellent tangy salad made of nine different varieties of tomato, and we finished with a plum desert, possibly the same as enjoyed by Ian and Ronald on their visit described above.

Sunday Lunch starter - “Palette du Peintre”, featuring 9 different varieties of home-grown tomato and a crisp parmesan “sucette”

The farm shop

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