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France is renowned throughout the world for its food and drink. Indeed, one of the attractions of buying a holiday home or living permanently in France is, in effect, to buy into the French lifestyle. In particular, to enjoy the local cuisine and wine. And these delights vary from region to region, depending on the soil and climate conditions (known technically as the ‘terroir’), which vary so much throughout the length and breadth of this extensive country. In fact, the best menu to try in any part of France is the ‘menu du terroir’ which combines the best in local ingredients and style of cooking. In the north our hearty food is designed to keep out the cold while the lighter fare in the south is influenced by the warmer climes of the Mediterranean and its ‘alfresco’ dining. And to accompany the food, what better than a glass or two of the local wine?
Visitors to the Nord Pas de Calais often ask not only to sample the local food, but also the local wine. The former is in abundance, including the famous potjevleesch (carbonade flamande) and also some of the finest French cheeses, such as maroilles, one of 36 French cheeses, with their own ‘appellation d’origine controlee’(a guarantee of quality), and ewe’s cheeses (fromage de brebis), especially those from Crequy, just up the road from us.
But wine is another matter. When told that no wine is produced in this region, because
we are too far north, our visitors exclaim in disbelief that wine is produced in
Hampshire, Kent, the Isle of Wight and even Yorkshire; so why not in the north of
France, which is further south in any case? A good question and one that is difficult
to answer, given that in summer it is several degrees warmer than the south of England
(but colder in winter). However, we are able to offer our visitors a local fruit-
One of the attractions of this region, which many visitors to France, to their great
misfortune, speed by on the motorway from Calais in their headlong rush south to
get down to other parts of France, is the number of fermes auberges, which are working
farms offering local food and, in many cases, also excellent accommodation, at reasonable
prices. A good example of a new breed of rural enterprise! And one which, by all
accounts, is thriving. One such delightful place, at which to stay and eat, is the
Ferme Auberge des Chartroux in Maresville, a hamlet some 10 kilometres north of Montreuil.
Madame Jean-
The region is also well known for its snails, prepared the burgundy way (‘escargots
bourguignons’) in a garlic and parsley butter sauce. They come from Airon-
It’s All In The Terroir
An Introduction to the Food, Drink and Restaurants of the Region
by Ian Blackshaw
Our local version is produced and bottled in the village of Loison sur Crequoise, in the heart of the ‘Seven Valleys’ (‘Les Sept Vallees’). Another local tipple produced there is their apple brandy – an excellent if powerful eau de vie! Excellent for keeping out the cold in winter or drinking all year round as an aperitif or digestif. And, in mid July, they have a ‘fete de groseille’– a good excuse for sampling the product and making merry.
Perle de Groseille -
The region is also rich in a wide variety of sea food, including shellfish, such as prawns, lobster and mussels; the port of Boulogne, on the Cote d’Opale, being the centre of the local fishing industry and reputedly the premier fishing port of France. When we want to push the boat out so to speak, we enjoy the seafood at La Matelote overlooking the harbour in Boulogne. Not cheap, but Tony Lestienne’s cooking is consistently very good and well worth it! After all, he is a Michelin starred chef!
Elsewhere in the region, at Houlle, near St. Omer, a local gin (‘genievre’), distilled
from junipers, is produced and widely enjoyed and appreciated. There are also several
artisanal breweries that produce a wide variety of very acceptable speciality beers,
both light and brown ales, reflecting the soil conditions and traditional tastes
of the region, strongly influenced by the Flemish style of brewing. To be enjoyed
in local pubs -
In St Omer itself is perhaps our favourite restaurant of all.
Jean-
The region is also well known for its honey; in particular, from Therry Apiculture
in Bouin-
One of the finest places in which to sample the local fare is the Auberge de la Grenouillere
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Another restaurant, less expensive, but also well worth visiting is the Auberge d’Inxent,
in the heart of the village of the same name, a few kilometres north of Montreuil,
offering delightful local country cooking, as well as a warm welcome from its charming
proprietors, Laurence and Jean-
Maroilles Cheese
Le Cygne, in an old Merchant’s House in a quiet typical square, where the cooking is excellent and the prices very reasonable, given the quality and the variety! The wine list is also extensive and reasonably priced.
Restaurant Le Cygne -
Ian Blackshaw, Frogsiders’ Food and Drink Correspondent is an International Lawyer specialising in Sports Law. He is well known for his magazine articles about expat life in France and he is the owner of 7 Valleys Bed & Breakfast www.7valleysbandb.com
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